Spice/Walkwise Patterdale walking weekend

Travelled up to Patterdale in the Lake District on the Friday 10th to meet Sue for a late lunch. Patterdale is located at the end of Ullswater which is deep in the Cumbrian Mountains. Sue and I had a walk down to the next village of Glenridding, about a mile to view the lake, it's steamers and have another beer. Whilst it was dry when we walked down the forecast was not good for the Saturday. All the walkers gathered for the customary drink before the evening meal and it was nice to see an old face from the Cheddar walk - one of our guides from Walkwise - John.

The meal over, and well fed were we, we all gathered in the back room so that the other guide, Paul, could give some brief details of Saturday's walk. There are always two, a hard and an easier walk - the hard walk would be 13 miles with 3,300 feet ascent; this is the one for me. it was pleasing that on Paul's suggestion we go for a beer in the pub across the road, the whole group went.

Saturday dawns nice and wet so it's down to the restaurant for bacon and eggs and a cup of tea. We set off as a group and boarded the local bus which took us to Aira Force, a waterfall close to Ullswater along the Aira Beck. As there had been a good bit of rain the force was in full spate as the photo's show. Once we had all taken our photos and seen the waterfall we split into our two groups.

We took a path up behind the falls through bracken and grassland gently rising around the edge of what is Watermillock Common. As the scenery was magnificent and rain had let off we stopped for a quick breather around the Spying How area, great vistas along the whole of Ullswater and surrounding mountains.

After the brief stop it was up and over Glencoyne Brow into the valley itself. This is classic valley sculpted by glacier action, steep U shaped and our path took us along the side of the valley and under Scot Crag and Glencoyne Head itself. Lots of becks and rills to cross, all in full flow due to the recent rains. We were treated to a bit of sunshine along the valley side but as we decided to have lunch at the valley head the heavens opened and it was back on with the wet weather gear.

I bless my trip to NZ as I came across a pair of overtrousers that unzip all the way up the leg both sides - great as I do not need to remove my walking boots. it only takes a couple of minutes to put on or remove and pack away.

The views back down the Glencoyne valley are beautiful, even in the rain - out over High Dodd on the opposite side of the water and way up towards Pooley Bridge at the other end of Ullswater. After lunch it was then a brief walk up to the saddle and into Sticks Pass, walking beside Sticks Gill. Here we passed a couple who were pushing their mountain bikes along the rather rough and awkward trail. The lady looked shattered and complained that it was 'his' idea!! The man told me that they were going up to Helvellyn, then would ride down from there - hope they made it okay.

At the top of Sticks Pass you come to a crossroad, straight over you descend to the north end of Thirlmere, right would take you up over Great Dodd and left to Helvellyn which was our route. You could not see any of the features ahead due to the cloud but whilst walking up the path towards Raise the clouds parted briefly to give us wonderful views of Thirlmere and back down towards Ullswater as well. The path was quite steep going up to Raise through stony ground, the path marked here by small cairns. I was acting a back marker today as a couple of the ladies were struggling uphill and through this section was rather concerned as I lost sight of the main group (was only 8 of us including John).

Boy was I happy to see the large cairn on Raise and to see the other guys as well. Raise is at 883m, Aira Force is about 180m so we had climbed some 700m but still had another 80m to climb in height. Sounds great but of course we descended 50m off of Raise and then up to 863 to cross over the Whiteside Bank, back down to 800m crossing the saddle before starting the final ascent to Helvellyn. It was here on the saddle that one of the ladies felt ill and could not go any further, thankfully with me being back marker I was able to holler for John to return - he was lost in the cloud ahead. He came back and after a half hour managed to get the lady and her friend up to where the others had stopped. Bearing in mind it was wet, cold and very windy stopping for this length of time is no joke. It was obvious one of the ladies could not go on so Mike offered to escort her back down off the mountain. This is a difficult call as really the group should stay together especially when the conditions are poor, however Mike said he had been to Helvellyn before so was happy to do the escort; if he had not been there then I would have volunteered.

Once they moved off downhill we continued the climb up onto the top which was totally covered by cloud. We walked to the shelter and I took a photo of the remaining group - in their finery. Then it was retrace the steps for a few metres to find one of the descents - Swirral Edge. I did not realise that I had signed up to act as a mountain goat but to descend off of the mountain one had to scramble and climb down though very jagged tumbled rock then out along the Edge. The clouds had thinned by now and what a sight, sheer drops either side - wonderful.

We could have climbed Catstye Cam which is at the end of Swirral Edge but time was now against us so we kept to the main path down to Red Tarn, then to follow Red Tarn Beck to where it joined Glenridding Beck. We met up with Mike and the other lady at the confluence of these two rivers, they having come down the shorter route across Red Screes and around Glenridding Common.

After a brief few minutes it was then a slog down to Glenridding itself and along to Patterdale. I was positive someone had increased the distance between the two villages, my feet and calves ached.

The hotel provided another excellent evening meal and after Paul had explained the itinerary for Sunday it was back across the road to the pub.

After a decent breakfast the long walkers gathered at the front of the hotel and said their goodbyes to the rest of the group, then it was a short drive up Hard Knock Pass to the pub and car park at the top. Only needed two cars as there is 7 of us for this 8 mile walk, 2,200 feet ascent.

It is a short stiff climb from the off right up past High Bull Crag which is on our right. The views all the way up are spectacular, right across Ambleside and to the coast. We took a breather at Stony Cove Pike and looked over all the ridges and valleys that face south, what a view. From here we skirted Threshthwaite Crag and gazed upon the trail that went up to the top of Thornthwaite Crag - our path, must be a 1 in 5 gradient. First though we had to scrabble and climb down vertically some 70m, across the saddle and up the 1 in 5 slope which was actually not too bad. At this point we had fell runners coming at us from both ways so useful in having to get off the path to let them through - catch your breadth. Once at the top we had a brief stop by the beacon on top of Threshthwaite Crag before joining the course of the old Roman Road we call High Street.

I have heard and read about this path and wanted to walk at least part of the route. Our part took us high onto the ridge with Hayeswater on the left and Blea Water on the right. We had lunch on the High Street with a commanding view down Riggingdale Beck and across the valley, over to Shap and the Pennines. Where we sat we had Kidsty Pike to our left.

After lunch our path took us to The Knott, which we climbed and had a great view over Hayeswater and back over the route we took along the High Street. Our route was now going to head back towards Patterdale between Rest Dodd and Brock Crags and down to Angle Tarn. The views from here were more of Patterdale valley, Brothers Water with views right across Helvellyn and surrounding mountains. At Boredale Hause there was a discussion whether we should climb up to Place Fell - more as a joke than being serious. Consensus was no as people had a journey to do that afternoon so we made our way down to the hotel.

Amanda took Mike and I to collect our cars and on return we had a drink with the rest of the team, Sue, Karen, Paula and John before they left for home. I had booked an extra night and so had Sue. Being full of aches and pains we managed to walk across the road to the pub for a meal and a chin wag on the weekend, which we both agreed was worth it - even with the pain!!

Monday saw us saying our goodbyes, Sue is going to Yeovil and myself to Bedford. At Pooley Bridge I turned right to follow the road to the A6 south of Penrith as I wanted to drive the 10 miles or so south to Shap village. I did not find it a pretty village and with dour weather turned around and drove back to Penrith and Jct 40 of the M6. Instead of driving down the M6 to the M61 and across the M62 i decided to to the A66 across the Pennines to Scots Corner. In my family this was a well known turning off point for our pilgrimage from Hertfordshire to Scotland for the annual holidays when I was a nipper. It has all changed now, the roads bigger and more free flowing - i.e. the old roundabout has long gone. One picks up the A1 which if you turned right you would end up at Edinburgh but I needed to go left for Ferrybridge and southwards. For those of you who are much younger than me the A1 was known as the Great North Road and preceded the M1. It was the main arterial route from London to Edinburgh and even to this day there is no motorway that directly connects London and Edinburgh.

Motorway wise you would use the M40/M42 from London, or the M1; then take the M6 to the Scottish border and from there drive the M74 to Glasgow. From Glasgow it is the M8 across to Edinburgh. It is only in the last couple of years that the final upgrading of the 10 miles or so across the border has been upgraded so that there is continuous motorway where the M6/M74 join.

Stourpaine 2010

GDSf = Great Dorset Steam Fair - September 2010

Just a few pics taken, please look at both Flickr and F/B for more photo's and video taken of a great number of the exhibits. Visited Wednesday through to Saturday, trying to see as much as possible including all the trade stalls. I did not think that there was as much interesting old vehicle parts, tools and the like this year.

Many highlights for me this year especially the Special display of McLaren Engines. Fancy being lucky enough to find McLaren works number 2 and considering it's age - built 1877, recognisable as a traction engine. There were 47 different types of traction engines plus the two Fowler BB1 ploughing engines with McLaren/Benz diesel conversions. Also included in the area were several McLaren implements, a living van, several other diesel engines plus two scale miniature engines. It was brilliant to see a number of engines across from NZ.

One of the great focal points are the Showman's engines lined up and fully lit at night, supplying power to various rides. There are other Showman engines also dotted around the vast site supplying power to a number of organs who work tireless all day and well into the night . There were 64 Showman's, excluding McLaren engines listed this year, managed to photo a good number.

In the steam tractor section we were treated to the finished 1926 Sentinel Tractor no 6426 in a light blue livery and yellow wheels. This was repatriated from Australia before a complete rebuilt was undertaken. As usual there was a good turnout from the road haulage locomotive section who enjoyed carting around a WW2 tank, courtesy of the Tank museum; as well as the large steam rail locomotive - Canadian Pacific, all 150 tons (excluding special trailer and modern diesel tractor unit). In addition to the above there were two fully laden timber trailers, a trailer with an early electric generator, a trailer full of ships anchor chain and a trailer with a huge cylindrical tank on; all available to hitch up to and cart around the play pen. The steam boys and girls do not get it all their own way as the diesel heavy haulage crews like to show what they can do as well, just not a lot of smoke, noise and smells when they go around.

The roller brigade were well represented, there must have been 25 of them plus a couple of early diesel rollers as well. Taken with their living vans, tar boilers and all the small equipment that is shown off the roller section is a worthy area to explore. The lads do enjoy themselves these days as they are allowed to dig out and make several sections of road, even applying tarmac nowadays. the roads are getting longer and more complex, it is a good thing that there is not enough room as the next step is motorway construction. However away from the roller section there are now early construction equipment such as a small dragline, dumper, tracked loader with earthmoving scraper and box; all working showing the visitor how things were done years ago. Within the roller section there was even a small steam patching roller - first time I have seen that.

I thought that this year there were not as many steam lorries at the show, the programme lists only 14 number but there were definitely more steam cars running around. The steam cars are very fast around the play pen especially one that had been built as a racer, beautiful looking with good clean lines. As normal there were plenty of steam miniatures on the go and it was good to see a number being driven by the apprentices. They have their own section of the play pen to use so the visitor can see both small and full size engines at the same time. Quite a number of these miniatures are based on an original engine.

The steam ploughing teams used to draw good crowds but this year did not see many people watching. Nowadays the whole area is roped off under H&S so one is not able to get a really good close view of the engines working - it is all at a distance which spoils the effects. Everything has to be roped these days because of H&S and Insurance. The other thing is that all engines are set up so that ropes and belts are positioned towards the inner part of the working area so again one has difficulty in seeing the more interesting parts of the machinery. It is still magic to watch the wood sawing and threshing equipment at work.

As usual there were a huge number of organs, the largest original organ being the 112 key Gavioli Scenic organ of 1908. there are a couple of larger organs but they are very modern by comparison (1984 and 2003). I enjoy wandering around moving from organ to organ listening to their melodies. Due to the McLaren special show there was not enough space to host the normal Saturday evening Organ Recital on the Anderton & Rowlands Grand Marengi Organ - great pity.

Despite being billed as the GDSF there are plenty of non steam vehicles and side shows to enjoy. How about wandering around viewing over 400 commercial vehicles, from the huge heavy haulage lorries, through to the light vans that would deliver the bread and fish around the streets in the 50's and 60's. Add to that some 100 plus cars, 20 caravans, 80 + motorbikes and 30 or so push bikes there is plenty to interest visitors.

We have touched on steam plowing, well there are two fields set aside for tractors and heavy horse so that they can show how they used to plow and till the fields. The tractors always give a good show, both static and working. This year there was a special display of Porsche tractors, but I was more interested in the early car they brought along - always fancied a 50's Porsche. The horses not only work the land but they also put on carriage driving displays and for me the star is always the horse drawn fire engine display complete with real fire to douse. Not to be out done, and the number of exhibits grows year on year are the military crews. It is absolutely phenomenal what they bring and display. It used to be a few lorries, jeeps and landies but now - tracked vehicles, rocket launcher with rockets etc.

Moving on; around the site are the craft tents, model exhibition marquee, how it was done in Granfer's day, private collections, and stationary engines. It is amazing how diverse these are now. There are even a separate section of renovated Shepherd huts to view and fancy collecting meat mincers! the craft marquee is good, lots to sample, eat and drink; I always get my lunch from there as soon as I have had my bacon and eggs - and that is the first action of the day. For £5.90 a good sized breakfast with mug of tea.

If one gets bored there is always the tractor pulling demonstrations. the tractor against a dynamic weighted sled, of course these days the tractors are not standard and I was told this year the organisers miscalculated the layout so the runway was some 30 metres shorter - damn it just is not as good with a shorter runway. How ever a couple of the steam tractors decided to have a go and with plenty of sparks flying they elegantly traversed the runway without too much effort. One of the NZ machines did end up with his front wheels in the air at the end of the tow and had to gently lower them much to the crowds delight. You have to get there early at the beginning of each demonstration as this is a popular event.

As normal I stay well into the evening so Wednesday to Friday night is Real Ale tent night with Dr Busker and the Dorset RATS (Real Ale Tent Singers). Plenty of rowdy bawdy songs most of them I at least know the chorus as does everybody else. He always finishes with Land of Hope Glory then God Save the Queen. Hats are expected to be removed.

What else can I say - nothing except roll on next year

Boston August 2010

Boston skyline from the harbour tour boat

U S S Constitution

The Old State House

Start of the Freedom Trail in Boston Common: Brewer fountain designed for the Paris Exhibition of 1855 and imported in 1857

Frogs resting at the side of frog pond located within the Common

New State House

Kings Chapel

Inside Kings Chapel

Old City Hall

2 shots of the old State House complete with restored Lion & Unicorn

Paul Revere house

Square where Revere's house is located, rhs just before the red brick building

Don't mess about with small tow trucks here, what a beauty!

Bridge over the Charles River

Never been on a commuter train in the US, this one a double decker

Boston, to most Brits it is infamous for the Boston Tea Party and to be fair to the Bostonians they do make sure the visitor is well catered for in this respect. Of course the tipping of tons of tea into the harbour is only one small event in a chain that led to the Crown removing their army from Boston and Independence for the whole of the USA.

As the final part of my world tour I stayed with an ex-colleague of mine who was working in Boston, thanks Ron for the opportunity to see such a lovely city. Ron and his wife live in a township some 45 minutes drive or train ride from Boston in a beautiful 3 storey town house. Sitting on the veranda one day I could not help noticing the hummingbirds flitting all around me.

I had three full days at Ron's one of which I spent in the house trying to catch up on my blog. I still had not written up the Hawaii adventures let alone start on Springfield. the other two days I spent in Boston city, the first taking the bus ride and harbour tour; the second walking the Freedom Trail.

To me it is interesting in that having bought "The Complete Guide to Boston's Freedom Trail" I could not help by smile at the opening words - 'The Cradle of Liberty... the birthplace of American Independence....Paul Revere's home and the Old North Church where his lanterns were hung: the very places where our nation began.' All very stirring stuff, the gentleman referred to is an interesting character who apart from being one of the inner circle of revolutionaries who were unhappy with the taxation and Legal obligations hoisted upon them from London; was really a very good silver and copper smith. It is his trade skills that he was remembered for after his death but it took the poet Longfellow to immortalise him 100 years later.

The Freedom Trail starts at the Boston Common, originally land that Bostonians could graze and water their animals. one of the three ponds survive, frog pond, although in much altered shape. The trail is 2.5 miles long and winds through the historic part of Boston and over the Charles River to Bunker hill.

Freedom - an interesting word - freedom from the yoke of British Parliament and the King. In a way the Puritans started it all by leaving Britain for a better life and one that they could take decisions on without interference from their masters especially concerning religious liberty. As with a number of colonies Bostonians ran their own affairs through self government and were very successful. Britain's royal treasury was severely depleted after the Seven Years war with France (ended 1763) so naturally the British government sought to replace the funds from increased taxation. This did not go down well with said colonialists who really did not have much say in the matter. Following a series of riots due to a number of Acts being imposed from Parliament (1765 Stamp Act and 1767 Townsend Act being 2 such acts)the British troops were sent in to quell disturbances (1768).

Much is made of the Boston massacre 1770 - 9 troopers facing a mob being tormented by rocks and other missiles; they fired into the mob killing 5 of them. the soldiers doing their job are seen as the villains whilst the mob are the heroes. Relate this to how many indians were killed on the Trail of Tears due to American inhumanity - I did not see those who perished hailed as heroes in American history.

In 1773 the infamous Tea Act was passed and led to the dumping of 342 tea chests in the harbour from three british cargo ships. Part of the problem was the taxation of tea imported and part due to Bostonians acquiring tea from France and Spain and therefore crippling the East India's tea trade. One thing led to another and the colonialists revolted. The battle for Boston ended on March 17th 1776 with the British troops and government officials sailing out of Boston. Declaration of Independence adopted on the 4th July 1776 but it was not until 1783 that the Peace Treaty was signed between the USA and Britain.

I digress, so back to the Freedom Trail. Started in sunshine but after lunch the heavens opened with a decent show of lightning thrown in. Because it was so hot I had my shorts, T shirt and sandals on but had taken the precaution of taking my dry bag and BB Fleet collapsible umbrella with me - needed both especially the dry bag for the camera. It rained so hard that I ended up with heavy moisture in my watch which took overnight to dry out fully.

The Freedom Trail:

Starts in Boston Common, the oldest park in America, 1634. Used initially for watering and grazing stock but once the town grew more prosperous the animals were moved out and people took over. Lovely park, plenty of space for all to enjoy. Just opposite the park is the new State House, one can go in but left that for next time. When I say new it was in 1795.

Next stop was Park Street church, built 1809 and the area was known locally as brimstone corner. This was because gunpowder was stored here in 1812. Next to the church was one of three graveyards on the trail, this the oldest in Boston. Known as the Granary burial ground, originally the site of the town granary - obvious really. In this cemetery is buried three signatories to the Declaration of Independence, Paul Revere and the victims of the massacre.

I then moved onto the Old South Meeting House where a number of meetings were held to discuss ways and means of removing the British, it was actually a church and has been restored sympathetically. Nearby is a rather quaint house with a roof that looks Mansard shape and the only roof style like it that I could see on my walk. In 1712 it used to be a book sellers and publishers and the likes of Longfellow would frequent the place. It is believed that Dickens visited as well when in Boston.

A quick hike around the corner and the Old State House hoves into view. I took the trouble to visit the museum on the first day of my visit and it has lots to look at and read - all about the use of the building both during the revolution then afterwards. Again I had to smile when a guide was talking about the buildings history, as on hearing the news that the Declaration of Independence had been ratified the crowd below went wild (again) and started to tear down anything that was linked to the King i.e. street signs etc. Oh well they forgot to change the name of the river that runs through the township - Charles River named after King Charles.

Then it is off to Faneuil Hall (1742) and the market place, today this is a bustling area with lots of street vendors and merchants. Opposite Faneuil Hall is Quincy Market (1826) and running parallel to this is North Market. Plenty to see, eat and admire here, it really is the bustling heart of the city. Just across the road and around the corner is the Union Oyster House. I had lunch here on both days whilst in town, their food was delicious, especially the oysters and I recommend their stout. Claimed to be the oldest restaurant in Boston as well as the oldest restaurant in continuous service in the US. Up to this point it was humid but pleasant, after lunch very wet so minimal viewing/reading of the guide book.

Just opposite the restaurant is the Holocaust Memorial, six glass towers all very beautiful but too wet to stand and read the inscriptions. Wending ones way along the trail from the Memorial the trail takes you through the North End. Here is Paul Revere's house located in North Square, a small wooden property that has been "restored" to it's original 1680 appearance. A few steps from the house is the Old North Church where the signal lanterns were shone on April 18 1775 to warn others that the British troops had left Boston and that they were heading towards Charlestown. This is the night that Paul Revere took his difficult and dangerous horse ride to warn others of the troops activities. In 1860 Longfellow wrote and published his poem which turned Revere into a national hero.

The rain eased off slightly whilst walking across the Charles River, over a rather fine plate girder bridge with central swing span. Very little to be gleaned from the internet except that it was built 1900. I liked it as on the swing spans the decking was of a fine steel mesh and one could see the river and abutments below - hell to walk over in high heels though - so did not try!!.

Once across the river the trail leads to the dockyard where the USS Constitution is moored. This is a 3 masted heavy frigate launched 1797. Nicknamed "Old Ironsides" because cannon balls would bounce off her hull, due to the use of a thick, tough skin of live oak wood that was used in her construction. She survived the best endeavours of the British and French to capture/sink her and is now a true tourist spot.

The final part of the walk is Bunker Hill which at the time of my going was sheathed in scaffolding etc currently undergoing renovation works. The weather was at it's worst here but the lightning was good to watch. Spend a short time inside keeping out of the rain. Bunker Hill does not look much now but it took the British troops three attempts before they succeeded in capturing it, and that because the Americans had run out of ammunition. It would have been nice to see the views from the hill on a fine day, not much to see for me so it was back down to the river via the P Revere Park and back to the train station.

Travelling to and from the city by train was a treat in itself. First time for me on a public train and had the pleasure of riding a double decker.

As I said above the Friday was spent in the house catching up with the blog from Hawaii. Friday early evening Ron took me to his golf club and enjoyed a beer on the terrace, then we went and had a lovely meal in a local restaurant. Early to bed as tomorrow I fly home and Ron is going deep sea fishing - never did find out how he got on!! If he had landed the big one I am sure he would have told me.