Boston August 2010

Boston skyline from the harbour tour boat

U S S Constitution

The Old State House

Start of the Freedom Trail in Boston Common: Brewer fountain designed for the Paris Exhibition of 1855 and imported in 1857

Frogs resting at the side of frog pond located within the Common

New State House

Kings Chapel

Inside Kings Chapel

Old City Hall

2 shots of the old State House complete with restored Lion & Unicorn

Paul Revere house

Square where Revere's house is located, rhs just before the red brick building

Don't mess about with small tow trucks here, what a beauty!

Bridge over the Charles River

Never been on a commuter train in the US, this one a double decker

Boston, to most Brits it is infamous for the Boston Tea Party and to be fair to the Bostonians they do make sure the visitor is well catered for in this respect. Of course the tipping of tons of tea into the harbour is only one small event in a chain that led to the Crown removing their army from Boston and Independence for the whole of the USA.

As the final part of my world tour I stayed with an ex-colleague of mine who was working in Boston, thanks Ron for the opportunity to see such a lovely city. Ron and his wife live in a township some 45 minutes drive or train ride from Boston in a beautiful 3 storey town house. Sitting on the veranda one day I could not help noticing the hummingbirds flitting all around me.

I had three full days at Ron's one of which I spent in the house trying to catch up on my blog. I still had not written up the Hawaii adventures let alone start on Springfield. the other two days I spent in Boston city, the first taking the bus ride and harbour tour; the second walking the Freedom Trail.

To me it is interesting in that having bought "The Complete Guide to Boston's Freedom Trail" I could not help by smile at the opening words - 'The Cradle of Liberty... the birthplace of American Independence....Paul Revere's home and the Old North Church where his lanterns were hung: the very places where our nation began.' All very stirring stuff, the gentleman referred to is an interesting character who apart from being one of the inner circle of revolutionaries who were unhappy with the taxation and Legal obligations hoisted upon them from London; was really a very good silver and copper smith. It is his trade skills that he was remembered for after his death but it took the poet Longfellow to immortalise him 100 years later.

The Freedom Trail starts at the Boston Common, originally land that Bostonians could graze and water their animals. one of the three ponds survive, frog pond, although in much altered shape. The trail is 2.5 miles long and winds through the historic part of Boston and over the Charles River to Bunker hill.

Freedom - an interesting word - freedom from the yoke of British Parliament and the King. In a way the Puritans started it all by leaving Britain for a better life and one that they could take decisions on without interference from their masters especially concerning religious liberty. As with a number of colonies Bostonians ran their own affairs through self government and were very successful. Britain's royal treasury was severely depleted after the Seven Years war with France (ended 1763) so naturally the British government sought to replace the funds from increased taxation. This did not go down well with said colonialists who really did not have much say in the matter. Following a series of riots due to a number of Acts being imposed from Parliament (1765 Stamp Act and 1767 Townsend Act being 2 such acts)the British troops were sent in to quell disturbances (1768).

Much is made of the Boston massacre 1770 - 9 troopers facing a mob being tormented by rocks and other missiles; they fired into the mob killing 5 of them. the soldiers doing their job are seen as the villains whilst the mob are the heroes. Relate this to how many indians were killed on the Trail of Tears due to American inhumanity - I did not see those who perished hailed as heroes in American history.

In 1773 the infamous Tea Act was passed and led to the dumping of 342 tea chests in the harbour from three british cargo ships. Part of the problem was the taxation of tea imported and part due to Bostonians acquiring tea from France and Spain and therefore crippling the East India's tea trade. One thing led to another and the colonialists revolted. The battle for Boston ended on March 17th 1776 with the British troops and government officials sailing out of Boston. Declaration of Independence adopted on the 4th July 1776 but it was not until 1783 that the Peace Treaty was signed between the USA and Britain.

I digress, so back to the Freedom Trail. Started in sunshine but after lunch the heavens opened with a decent show of lightning thrown in. Because it was so hot I had my shorts, T shirt and sandals on but had taken the precaution of taking my dry bag and BB Fleet collapsible umbrella with me - needed both especially the dry bag for the camera. It rained so hard that I ended up with heavy moisture in my watch which took overnight to dry out fully.

The Freedom Trail:

Starts in Boston Common, the oldest park in America, 1634. Used initially for watering and grazing stock but once the town grew more prosperous the animals were moved out and people took over. Lovely park, plenty of space for all to enjoy. Just opposite the park is the new State House, one can go in but left that for next time. When I say new it was in 1795.

Next stop was Park Street church, built 1809 and the area was known locally as brimstone corner. This was because gunpowder was stored here in 1812. Next to the church was one of three graveyards on the trail, this the oldest in Boston. Known as the Granary burial ground, originally the site of the town granary - obvious really. In this cemetery is buried three signatories to the Declaration of Independence, Paul Revere and the victims of the massacre.

I then moved onto the Old South Meeting House where a number of meetings were held to discuss ways and means of removing the British, it was actually a church and has been restored sympathetically. Nearby is a rather quaint house with a roof that looks Mansard shape and the only roof style like it that I could see on my walk. In 1712 it used to be a book sellers and publishers and the likes of Longfellow would frequent the place. It is believed that Dickens visited as well when in Boston.

A quick hike around the corner and the Old State House hoves into view. I took the trouble to visit the museum on the first day of my visit and it has lots to look at and read - all about the use of the building both during the revolution then afterwards. Again I had to smile when a guide was talking about the buildings history, as on hearing the news that the Declaration of Independence had been ratified the crowd below went wild (again) and started to tear down anything that was linked to the King i.e. street signs etc. Oh well they forgot to change the name of the river that runs through the township - Charles River named after King Charles.

Then it is off to Faneuil Hall (1742) and the market place, today this is a bustling area with lots of street vendors and merchants. Opposite Faneuil Hall is Quincy Market (1826) and running parallel to this is North Market. Plenty to see, eat and admire here, it really is the bustling heart of the city. Just across the road and around the corner is the Union Oyster House. I had lunch here on both days whilst in town, their food was delicious, especially the oysters and I recommend their stout. Claimed to be the oldest restaurant in Boston as well as the oldest restaurant in continuous service in the US. Up to this point it was humid but pleasant, after lunch very wet so minimal viewing/reading of the guide book.

Just opposite the restaurant is the Holocaust Memorial, six glass towers all very beautiful but too wet to stand and read the inscriptions. Wending ones way along the trail from the Memorial the trail takes you through the North End. Here is Paul Revere's house located in North Square, a small wooden property that has been "restored" to it's original 1680 appearance. A few steps from the house is the Old North Church where the signal lanterns were shone on April 18 1775 to warn others that the British troops had left Boston and that they were heading towards Charlestown. This is the night that Paul Revere took his difficult and dangerous horse ride to warn others of the troops activities. In 1860 Longfellow wrote and published his poem which turned Revere into a national hero.

The rain eased off slightly whilst walking across the Charles River, over a rather fine plate girder bridge with central swing span. Very little to be gleaned from the internet except that it was built 1900. I liked it as on the swing spans the decking was of a fine steel mesh and one could see the river and abutments below - hell to walk over in high heels though - so did not try!!.

Once across the river the trail leads to the dockyard where the USS Constitution is moored. This is a 3 masted heavy frigate launched 1797. Nicknamed "Old Ironsides" because cannon balls would bounce off her hull, due to the use of a thick, tough skin of live oak wood that was used in her construction. She survived the best endeavours of the British and French to capture/sink her and is now a true tourist spot.

The final part of the walk is Bunker Hill which at the time of my going was sheathed in scaffolding etc currently undergoing renovation works. The weather was at it's worst here but the lightning was good to watch. Spend a short time inside keeping out of the rain. Bunker Hill does not look much now but it took the British troops three attempts before they succeeded in capturing it, and that because the Americans had run out of ammunition. It would have been nice to see the views from the hill on a fine day, not much to see for me so it was back down to the river via the P Revere Park and back to the train station.

Travelling to and from the city by train was a treat in itself. First time for me on a public train and had the pleasure of riding a double decker.

As I said above the Friday was spent in the house catching up with the blog from Hawaii. Friday early evening Ron took me to his golf club and enjoyed a beer on the terrace, then we went and had a lovely meal in a local restaurant. Early to bed as tomorrow I fly home and Ron is going deep sea fishing - never did find out how he got on!! If he had landed the big one I am sure he would have told me.