Walmea Canyon and Wailua River tour

Spouting Horn Blow hole at Poipu on the south shore of Kauai

These are tiny shells that they use to make special Lei, for a wedding Lei of 10 strings some 1000 shells per string are used. The shells are only found on the island of Niihau where only native Niihau Hawaians live in accord with their traditions - no electricity, cars etc etc. All very pre-European lifestyle, visitors are not allowed and the natives only come to Kauai as and when they wish to sell their wares and pick up mail and necessities that they cannot grow or obtain from the land.

Poynciana tree just outside the shop with the above Lei's, in a town called Hanapepe

Red Cardinal photographed at Waimea Canyon

Hawaii's answer to The Grand Canyon. Very spectacular

Fern Grotto on the Wailua river

14th July 2010

Pick up outside of hotel at 05.00 hours and off to the airport again. This time to the island of Kauai for a trip to see the Waimea Canyon. Had a bit of trouble with the tour bus and joked that the driver must have been on the big island and appropriated some lava rock. The superstition is that if you remove lava rock from the big island without due ceremony bad luck will dog you. Had two Spanish girls on the trip - neurologists on a convention in Ohau island plus a neurotic female from New York who was a right pain in the ass. I had the "pleasure" in sitting next to her on the plane and on the return trip she did not say a word. Must have been my magnetic personality :-) anyway the two Spanish lasses more that made up with plenty of laughs and chat, off to Scotland in a few weeks time to sample whiskeys - ohhh enjoy.

However changed bus and off to see the island. We were shown Norfolk or Cook pines, both yellow and red shower trees and various cacti plants all of which are non native.

First stop was the Spouting Horn blowhole. Quite spectacular and performed well for us. Of greater interest was the sea turtles that were bobbing up and down in the surf, too far away for a photo.

Back in the bus and a short drive we stopped to look up a side valley where the Hanapere river flows, a pretty good view and an idea of what we would see later on in the day. The driver had been explaining about Niiham island which could be seen off shore, whilst it is owned by one of the big post European families the rights of the native people are respected and no visitors allowed. The islanders do look to the other island for potential partners for their offspring but have a strict rule in that if the male outsider is not good enough they are rejected from the island, all females can stay and find another husband if the first marriage fails. One of their exports are beautiful Leis and we were show a private collection, see photo. Recently the islanders were commissioned to make a wedding Lei out of these tiny shells of a pink colour, the cost was $50,000.

Apparently Kauai is know for it's sea salt which due to the very red nature of the soil is also of a red colour. They still have salt pans close to the shore which are used occasionally.

After lunch at one of the golf clubs we were taken up into Waimea Canyon (Wai meaning fresh and Mai meaning red, Kai would indicate salt water). As you can see from the photos it is a spectacular place. As the guide notes say this rivals the Grand Canyon, it is some 10 miles long, 1 mile wide at it's widest point and 3500 feet deep. Carved out of volcanic deposits and lava rock by wind and rain over thousands of years. Had been told that there was only one raptor on the islands, a hawk but saw a number of large birds soaring throughout the canyon. Told that they were Tropic birds, large, white with long tails - very graceful. Did manage to get a photograph of a Red Cardinal after several attempts. Also very lucky to see a Hawaiian Owl, bit like a Barn Owl and the driver commented that it was the first owl he had seen for 10 years!!

One of the points that all the drivers had made was that many of the plants and trees are introduced but in the car park the native Sandlewood tree grows, good to see something that was native to the island.

Would have liked to stay longer to see the differing shades of colour as the sun moved across the sky but we had other things to do. However as we had some time available before our boat trip we visited a place on the shore that was built by the Europeans for loading the sugar cane onto their ships for export. Only the piled substructure remains as hurricanes had blown away all the superstructure. As sugar cane is no longer king the wharfs are no longer in use. Great to walk the walkways and look down into the crystal clear water to watch the fish - no turtles though.

The driver showed us a small low growing plant whose white flower appears to have been cut in half. In accord with Hawaiian legend the other half of the flower can be found on a tree in the mountains.

Then on to view a waterfall set back off the road side up a small valley.

Time had moved on so we reached our second main event of the day, a trip along the Wailua river to the fern grotto. We were treated to a 2 mile river cruise up Hawaii's only navigable river in a fairly unique shallow bottomed boat. Unique because of the design of the power unit at the rear of the boat. The tour was started by the Smith (get everywhere these Smiths) family in 1946 with a row boat and outboard engine. One gets to see some beautiful scenery along the way, entertainment is provided by the family with two of the grand-daughters showing us how to do the hula dance. Talk about putting your left leg in, left leg out and turn it all about!!!. On the return trip we all had a go enmasse, great laugh.

The fern grotto was disappointing as the ferns are recovering from a hurricane of 12 years ago. Apparently this ripped out much of the surrounding trees and bushes as well as much of the fern growth around and in the cave entrance. They are growing back but these ferns are slow growers. We were treated to the song Blue Hawaii whilst at the grotto by two of the Smith family, many many celebs have visited these island and plenty of films shot on Kauai, Elvis was especially mentioned. Back on the boat we were royally entertained by the family with native song and dance, the grandad playing the guitar and blowing on a large conch shell. He told us that this was a family heirloom now as he had personally used this shell on the Elvis film where blue hawaii was sung. Hip hip hurray.

Sadly back to the airport and back to the hotel arriving around 21.00 hours - a long day but enjoyable.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Rainbow falls

Red Ginger plant - not the plant the the ginger root comes from

Next few photos are of lava flows from Mauna Ulu mountain down to the sea - some 6 miles

Flowers in the Orchid Island shop - beautiful

Smoking vents across the valley

Inside the Thurston Lava tube

13th July Flight to the Bid Island and trip around it.

06.30 pick up by coach and trip to airport for flight to Hawaii, the big Island. Landed in Hilo and then drove through Banyon Drive. The Banyon is a large tree, many planted along the roadside by celebrities. Monkey pod trees and large leaf trees called elephant ears were pointed out by the driver.

Called into a macadamia nut factory and enjoyed an ice cream. Took the red ginger flower photo. This is tsunami country and there are the sirens everywhere. Once out of Hilo area very rustic but oh so green as the plants thrive on the volcanic ash which is rich in minerals.

Drove out to the Kilauea crater, part of Hawaii volcanoes national park. Was only able to drive along part of the crater rim as the area in the crater is closed due to high levels of sulphur. It was very wet and misty up at the crater, the rim is 4000 feet above sea level hence the clouds. The mistiness added to by steam from the rain falling on the lava and seeping down to the hotter rocks beneath our feet. Plenty of steam rising from vents all around us. Did manage to look down into the crater from the Jagger museum, which has a number of seismograph charts plotting a number of sensors across Hawaii.

From one of the brochures they say that Mauna Loa is the most massive mountain on the planet, rising from the sea bed to a total height of 56000 feet, 27000 feet higher than Mt Everest. The mountain covers a total of 19000 cubic miles. Mauna Ulu is sited on the southern slope of Mauna Loa due to the movement of the tectonic plate and the formation of a new hot spot.

We drove out from the crater and back down into the sunshine to have lunch at Kalapana village and visit the Kaimu black sand beach. All the lava flow pictures are from this area. Took my own lunch with me and sat on the black sands and watched the Pacific breakers beat against the lava cliffs. This lava has travelled some 6 miles from the volcano and in my eyes was beautiful. Had my boots on, one woman has flip flops and wanted to know if they would be study enough!!! Doh!!! Walked extensively over the lava and could see where nature was beginning to claim back the land, small ferns - several types - were colonising cracks and crevices. Along the shore the locals had been planting coconut seeds which were thriving. I found one on the beach that had a short root so planted it along where the others were - my part in the island's vegetation regeneration.

Would have liked to have gone further inland to see the new lava flows but as they were around the other side this was not allowed. The interesting thing is that when this volcano erupts the locals gather to watch, rather than run away. The geologists have confirmed that this volcano blows at a much lower pressure than others so is not so dangerous and there is less material thrown into the sky.

We were told that due to the tectonic plates movement there was a new hot spot just off the tip of the island which had grown some 15000 feet above the sea bed but still had 3000 feet to go before sea level. The expectation is that once sea level is reached the new land will combine with the current island land mass extending the size of the island. This is how the island has grown from the four previous volcanic eruptions.

We had to leave which was a shame but two more treats in store. The first was a visit to an orchid factory/shop. What beautiful colours and plants there were on view. Took a number of photos, a couple shown above. One smelt like chocolate another like lemon bleach.

Moving on we visited Thurston lava tube. Caused by the surrounding lava solidifying leaving molten lava to flow underground in a tube. The tube is known to be 28 miles long but visitors can walk 400 yards in a safe environment, but if fully equipped can walk further along the tube. Difficult to take photos but included one that shows people inside the tube.

All too soon it was back to the airport at Hilo for the flight to Honolulu arriving back at the hotel by 20.00 hrs. Next trip tomorrow - 05.00 pick up!

Battleship USS Missouri memorial

Battleship Missouri, one of four built and the last to be launched. The ship is immense both in size and achievements.

length is 887 ft and 3 inches

width is 108 ft and 2 inches

draft is 38 feet

height is 209 ft and 8 inches

displacement is 58,000 tons

speed in excess of 32 knots

launched January 1944 and decommissioned in February 1955

Recommissioned in May 1986 and final decommissioned in March 1992

main guns are 9 x 16"/50 caliber with range of 23 miles

secondary guns are 10 x 5"/38 caliber with range of 9 miles

air defense - 4 x Vulcan Phalanx weapons systems

missiles are - 32 Tomahawk and 16 Harpoon anti-surface missiles

Theoretically the ship could be brought back into service as she is only on loan to the memorial association.

Our tour guide showed us around the deck which is immense. As he said we have walked in the footsteps of some very important people as this ship was used to accept and sign the Japanese surrender bringing to an end WW2. The plaque above is set into the deck and to one side is a photograph of all the signatories. After the tour we had just enough time to go below and take a whistle stop recce of the galley's, restrooms of the offices and men. Then it was up to the bridge via the decks where the missile launchers stand.

Not only did the ship fight in WW2 but she took part in the Korean war and more recently was one of the ships who participated in Desert Storm. When she was recommissioned and refitted they found that there was no staff who could understand the complex computer system used for range finding and gun firing so had to bring back sailors out of retirement to advise and show the boffins of the day how it all worked.

Why was the Missouri picked for the surrender of the Japanese following the dropping of the atomic bombs? - well the current President just happened to come from Missouri and his wife had christened the ship originally.

The ship has been totally refurbished recently and looks good in her new paint. Certainly the biggest ship I have been on and one of the more interesting, needed more time though and a different tour as one can visit the engine rooms.

Ford Island - Pacific Aviation Museum

The Tower on Ford Island, awaiting money to assist in it's repair. All you film buffs will know it has been part of such epics as Pearl Harbour and Tora!Tora!

Tour started with a 12 minute film detailing firstly the attack on Pearl Harbour but then explains the subsequent American attack on the Japanese mainland, the crucial battle of Midway and then the slog through the various Pacific rim countries to beat the Japanese.

The have a few planes and plenty of dioramas detailing events. Each plane had a role to play in either the day or the aftermath. There is the actual light civilian plane that was one of a dozen who were enjoying a morning flight around the airfields when the Japanese struck. Several got shot down but a few survived albeit with bullet holes. The son who was having a flying trip with his father witnessed all the brief action and the son has recorded on tape his memories of the day, which the visitor can listen to.

The P 40 Warhawk was one of only a handful of planes that were able to get airborne and fight back with the second wave of Japanese bombers. Apparently due to the concerns over local Japanese sabotage all the fighter planes were parked neatly wing tip to wing tip on the air fields, without fuel and bombs. A sitting target, one which the Japanese took full advantage of. Once air staff realised this was for real the ground crews were able to fuel and arm some planes. The Americans make a great play of pilots turning up in their pyjamas and dinner suits to go fight the enemy. Suggest they read about the early days of WW2 and the Battle of Britain.

There is a B52B Mitchel bomber, this type of aircraft was used in the Dolittle raids on Japan, the first time a bomber took off from the flight deck of an aircraft carrier. No one was really sure this could be done, but it was.

They also have a SBD3 Dauntless bomber that they used during the battle of Midway. This was a crucial battle in that if the Americans had lost the whole Pacific would be open for the Japanese armies and navy to attack Hawaii again and then move onto the likes of Australia and New Zealand. It is easy to forget the distances from Hawaii and Midway from the west coast of America, all supplies had to be brought by ship so losing was not really an option. Plus Pearl Harbour really hurt the Americans as they thought they were safe, so the armed forces were under tremendous pressure. In winning it gave secure bases for counter attacks and the ultimate regaining of allied territory.

There is also a F4F3 Wildcat but cannot remember the role it played.

Outside the aircraft hanger/museum is the famous control tower that has seen plenty of action both for real and on film. I believe that there is another hanger which houses more planes plus helicopters but our tour did not include this.

Onto the fourth and final tour of the day

Pearl Harbour - 2nd Tour USS Blowfin

Given an audio headset, worked all the time and plenty of information given. Take your own time exploring through the submarine from stem to stern. Not my first time on a sub but the audio was helpful and it was a very interesting tour.

The Blowfin is a Balao class submarine and named after a voracious and predatory fish. Well named as she racked up a total of 44 ships sunk during the nine patrols she undertook in WW2. As the audio says the crew felt she was a lucky ship as no lives were lost, however beside the sub is a memorial to all 52 subs lost during the war, a total of 3500 men lost at sea.

Just by the Blowfin is a real coning tower that one can see and sit in as well as a set of periscopes for the visitors to use.

Time for lunch before the coach heads over to Ford Island and the two afternoon tours.

Pearl Harbour 12th July 2010

USS Arizona Memorial

Anchor from the Arizona

Naval supply vessels in the harbour

Navy launch

USS Missouri in the distance

Exposed from gun turret

What a day, four distinct trips within the Pearl Harbour complex.

First tour was to the visit to the USS Arizona Memorial

Once we had all got through security which was not that difficult if you had listened to the bus driver in the first place, we had a short time to look around before meeting up at Contemplation Circle for the 10am water shuttle. We had time to see the short movie capturing the fateful day December 7th 1941 showing real footage of the aftermath, I find it interesting in being told what the Japanese plans were, and how they expected the USA to be crippled by the attack for some considerable time after. This would allow the Japanese to expand their interests in the Far East, acquire the basic raw materials that they currently did not have and then expect the USA to sue for peace allowing them to continue to hold onto captured territory.What a rude shock Japan got when not only the USA salvaged most of their battleships but launched an audacious raid on cities in Japan. Caused the Japanese to halt their expansion plans and concentrate more on strengthening defense. The Americans were fortunate in that their aircraft carriers were at sea so were not attacked. These ships were their platform to launch bombers for the raid into Japan. Due to distance none were able to return but flew on to both China and Russia. China actually rescued American air crews from behind Japanese lines.

The trip out to the memorial was by navy barge, a quick trip across part of the harbour, which is huge. The memorial building sits across part of the sunken vessel but is not attached to it. Whilst most of the vessels were salvaged the Arizona was too badly damaged due to their ammunition exploding, so they salvaged what they could. I believe that over 1000 people lost their lives on that night just from the Arizona alone. One can see the outline of the ship as most of the remaining superstructure is just below water level.

This is a war grave so do not believe that much equipment was removed from below decks. Had half an hour on the memorial bridge, plenty of time really. All very tastefully done and not over the top, it is a shock to see all the names of the fallen listed out. The navy could not clean out all of the oil so one sees droplets forming on the surface, to me it was like the souls of the fallen are gradually able to escape their murky environment and rise up to heaven.

Back on land we had some time before the next tour so had a look in the shop. Lots to see and buy but all the information was in heavy or large booklets so this was one site that I did not buy the necessary literature that gives detail - will need to google if more information required.

All around the complex was information boards taking the visitor through the fateful day, made very interesting reading. Thankfully it was not too hot, very bright and sunny though.